The first Tees weren’t Tees at all
I have written on his blog about the history of graphic tees. Today’s post focuses on the history of the plain T-shirt. Did you ever wonder
What is the origin of the plain T-shirt?
The first industrial-made T-shirts
As so often in Fashion History, the t-shirt has a military origin like the trench coat or the duffel-coat. Between the Mexican-American War (1898) and 1913 around the sometime around the Spanish-American War, the U.S. Navy started to provide t-shirts as standard undershirts. In the first four decades of 20th century, tees were a white jersey cotton shirt with crew-neck, short-sleeves worn under a uniform. This fabric is tough, cool and perfect on warm and hot days.
In hot Tropical weather, sailors, mariners and sub-mariners took of their uniform tops when just hanging out among themselves. Between the Great War and WWII, the U.S. Army adopted T-shirts as part of the uniforms for training during hot weather.
Workers and Mom’s adopted the undershirts in the 1920s
In the 1920s, the shirt became popular as an undershirt for workers in agriculture and industry. It looked more polished and was more comfortable the the DIY from a union suit. By the Great Depression, the T-shirt was the default underwear for workers.
The easy to clean fabric made tees a preferred choice for mom’s as outerwear when their sons did chores or played outside.
Conquering mainstream after WWII
After WWII, veterans wore t-shirts tucked into their uniform trousers as casual clothes. Fashion industry saw a new market – the teenager fashion.
Rebelish post-war babyboomer teenagers opposed to the mainstream 50s culture. Rock’n Roll was their music, Elvis Presley, Bill Haley, Buddy Holly, just to mention a few. They wore leather motor-cycle jackets, motor-cycle boots, jeans and a white T-shirt.
Next Hollywood took up the trend dressing their main actors in a tee. Just think Marlon Brando in The Wild One or A Street Car Named Desire. These movies made the garment fashionable as mainstream general-purpose casual clothing in the early 1950’s. At that time the garnment was worn tucked in.
As os often, when an It or well recognized group wore an item, others (not belonging to the group) felt lust to wear the item to identify with the group and seemingly belong to them, i.e. being taken.
In the late 60s, the item got shorter sides than front and back. The Flower Power people wore it untucked.
The T-shirt in post-war West-Germany
US soldiers stationed in Germany wore the undershirts under their uniform and plain with jeans on weekends. Inspired by Hollywood movies and the soldiers, young German men started to wear them. As time progressed more and more men started wearing them. The Flower Power movement introduced the T-shirt also into the fashion of girls in their teen or tween years.
Of course, my sis and I wanted a T-shirt too. My late mom, who grew up during WWII, forbid us kids to wear T-shirts in the late 60s early 70s because they are American underwear. Note that German underwear was typically cut like a tank-shirt, but with wider cleavage and slimmer straps than a tank-shirt.
The modern version
About hundert years later, the former underwear has turned into a Must-have fashion staple – solo or as layering piece under sweaters, button-downs, blazers and jackets. Tucked in or not, or half-tuck. Interestingly, or should I say as always, the women’s version is much more expensive than the men’s version.
Saving tip: Check the men’s department for high quality crisp white T-shirts to save.
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Look of the Day
I know, I should have added a white Tee outfit to this post. Full disclosure: The one I bought for this warm season is already recycled for cleaning purposes. It got spilled and I couldn’t get the spot out of the fabric. Thus, I added the look I wore for Casual Friday last week. A simple all neutral look of cropped jeans, a black blouse, a scarf tied as a bow, heels and a trench coat as rain showers were in the forecast. Actually, it’s sort of a summer-to-fall transitional look. The first leaves are already turning yellow. Some already fell off and the sandhill cranes, ducke and geese are already leaving.
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Photos of me: G. Kramm
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