Slips are fantastic pieces to avoid clinging under dry, cold weather conditions. However, beyond improving the thermal wear comfort and elegant flow of dresses and skirts, slips are not only undercover. This brief history of the slip covers when the slip came into fashion as underwear, how it was looked at different times, and when underwear-as-outerwear popped up during the various fashion eras. Read to be in the know, and get inspired to incorporate the slip into your wardrobe for thermal comfort, and effortlessly chic style.
- History of the Slip: Smocks and Chemises
- The 18th Century France
- Motor-Fashion, Suffragettes, the Great War, and the Golden Twenties
- Limited Resources: Slip as Underwear to Substitute for Lining
- Post WWII the Slip Gets Shape
- Birth of the Half-Slip
- Sartorial Minimalism of the 1990s
- The Underwear-As-Outerwear Trend of the Late 2010s
- Slips, and Half-Slips in Alaska
- Slip Dresses in the 2020s
- References
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History of the Slip: Smocks and Chemises
In Medieval Times, a smock, a loosely fitting lightweight underdress cut from rectangles of linen or silk for the commoners and Rich, respectively, served as underwear to protect the outerwear from sweat. Smocks also served for protection of the skin during bathing while the plague run over Europe. More on fashion and their relation to epidemics.
However, there are underwear issues beyond hygiene. For dresses to flow nicely and not clinch in dry cold weather, what is underneath is key. Therefore, It became fashionable to wear these slips underneath dresses as well. In France, the word chemises referred to smocks.
The 18th Century France
At the French Court, Queen Marie Antoinette and her female personal wore a so-called chemise as leisurewear when meeting casually among close girlfriends. Two versions existed: the chemise a la Reine (shirt of the Queen), and the chemise a la Guimard. Historians believe that the latter name referred to the famous French ballerina and Paris Opera star, Marie-Madeleine Guimard (27 December 1743, Paris — 4 May 1816). Chemises had a loose cut, and came in various fabrics and colors. A drawstring or sash at the waist or neck gave shape to the garment.
Chemise and underwear only differed in so far that the female court members wore the chemise over stays and a petticoat. No wonder that Elisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun‘s painting of Queen Marie Antoinette (photo below) in her chemise created a public scandal.
Motorfashion, Suffragettes, the Great War, and the Golden Twenties
The invention of the car, and young wealthy women driving them led to motor age fashion. The industrialization not only of clothes making increased the number of women in the work force. Consequently, practical reasons together with the first women movements contributed to the end of griddles, and corsets. Finally, after the Great War, the slip replace those types of underwear.
Obviously, a loosely fitting, lightweight slip went well as underwear for the flapper and shift dresses of the 1920s. Some historians consider the flapper dress as an early version of the modern slip dress.
Limited Resources: Slip as Underwear to Substitute for Lining
In the fashion of the 1930s due to the Great Depression and during WWII, fabric was rationed. Therefore, a slip could substitute for lining to give dresses for nice flow. The wearing comfort of slips increased with the introduction of the bias-cut that permits more stretch of the garment than a cut perpendicular to the weft or wrap yarns.
Post WWII the Slip Gets Shape
The full-slip was supposed to be about an inch to and inch and a half (2-3 cm) shorter than the dress. It was considered inappropriate when the slip would show. Starting in the 1940s, the cut of slips defined the bust, and waist. Typically, lace and/or satin trims, small satin bows or a little fake pearl embellished the garments to add a sexy allure. They were made from silk, rayon, and later polyester.
No wonder that after WWII, Polish refugee women wore these beautiful slips as day-dresses. The West German women ridiculed them for not knowing that slips are underwear. At that time, in West-Germany, a lot of frustration existed among the people who had faced the war in the Rhine-Ruhr area. They lived in bombed-out houses, while refugees got assigned apartments in the newly-built housing.
The style of the full slip remained similar about 30 years. The second women movement finally made it acceptable for women and girls to wear pants in school and at work. As a result, by the 1970s, young women considered slips as old-fashioned underwear only worn by women in midlife and beyond. Full disclosure: I was one of them.
Birth of the Half-Slip
In the 1950s, the petticoat was a half-slip worn underneath the new dress and skirt style introduced by Yes Saint Laurent. In the 1960s, slim, straight-cut half-slips aka underskirts came up. Their hem typically had a lace trim. Young women considered it sexy when the lace became visible under their sheaths when sitting down.
Sartorial Minimalism of the 1990s
In the 1990s, slip dresses became part of the underwear-as-outerwear trend. Typical fabrics were charmeuse, layered chiffon, silk, cotton, or polyester often with lace trims. What to wear with a slip dress kept the garment just a summer thing at that time.
The Underwear-As-Outerwear Trend of the Late 2010s
Towards the end of the 2010s, the underwear-as-outerwear or lingerie trend resurfaced. This trend includes corsets, bras, and the slipdress.
Slips, and Half-Slips in Alaska
Recall the photo of Lady Diane Spencer in her summer skirt? Back in 1981, I considered it sexy in a romantic way. Call me a prude if you want. But today, I wear half-slips under summer dresses and skirts to avoid such see-thru. One reason is also that every fabric you can see thru also means that harmful UV radiation can travel thru the fabric as well. Living in a region with the Sun up 24/7 for nearly 90 days, you want to reduce your sun exposure.
Needless to say, slips are great for slim layering for thermal comfort. With about seven months of winter, slips are part of my strategy to create thin, insulating air layers between fabrics. Consequently, I wear them in layering for thermal comfort during winter.
Slip Dresses in the 2020s
Are slip dresses in style in 2024? Yes. Slip dresses are again a Do. Best they are no longer just a summer vacation and weekend piece. Today’s offers include the chemise and smock style in addition to the classic V-neck or scoop-neck bias-cut. Furthermore, the choice of fabrics has increased from satin and plain weaves in cotton, linen, rayon and polyester to liquid fabrics and sequins. Consequently, you can find a festive option for a summer wedding or party. This means in wedding dressing the slip-dress style is no longer just appropriate for beach weddings.
Tip: Slip dresses are again in fashion. So don’t miss out on this fun trend.
Tip: Wear a halftee or T-shirt underneath your slip dress on cloudy or chilly days. So chic.
References
Bendall, S.A., 2018. Back to the Basics: The Smock in the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries
Cunnington, C. Willett, and Phillis Cunnington. The History of Underclothes. London: Michael Joseph Ltd., 1951. Reprint, London: Faber and Faber, 1981.
DeWitt, Nancy, 2016. Motor Age Fashion, Toppan Leefung Pte. Ltd., China.
Döbler, Hannsferdinand, 1972. Kultur und Sittengeschichte der Welt – Kleidung, Mode, Schmuck. Bertelsmann Verlag, München, Germany.
Mölders, N., 2023. Discover the Relation between Fashion, Fabric, Weather, and Comfort. Amazon Publishing Pros. 182p.
Smithsonian, 2019. Women: Our Story. DK Publishing, New York.
Outfit details featured photo: Half slip as skirt with Coach bag, Very Fine Dance Sport sandals, Rebecca Collins necklace, gemstone bangle, Covered Perfectly top, Nordgreen watch (use code HLSTYLE for 15% off), sunglasses c/o Eagle
Photos of me: G. Kramm
© 2013-2024 Nicole Mölders | All rights reserved
My wife typically wears a half-slip under a skirt and a full slip under a dress. She WOULD NEVER…wear underwear on the outside of her clothes!!!!!
Very interesting post Nicole. Made me go to my collection of slips and look at them – realise I need a couple more for summer – thanks for the post
Nicole! Such a great history lesson on slips! I had a drawer full of slips until recently. I wore them regularly under skirts and dresses! I think it’s great that you still wear them and use them not only for smoothing out the layers, and to address shear material but also for warmth! Another fun monthly collaborations!
Julie xo
what a great blog on the history of the slip. I so find it necessary to have a 1/2 slip on hand; especially in the summer months. It keeps me cool and my skirts and dresses from sticking to me – also a necessity under white or sheer garments. Ah, and I do love a 90’s slip dress, I think they are wonderful layering pieces and can be worn with layers over or under them for endless options!\
Great post Nicole!
xx
Suzanne
asksuzannebell.com
You know how I love reading the history my friend! And I too love slips and find them suitable for many reasons, that you also list. I’m finding it harder and harder to find some at the right lengths these days though! Great post!
Thank you for your article. I believe all women should wear full slips under dresses and half slips under skirts. This gives your dress or skirt protection from your body oils, makes the fabric not see thru and helps the dress and skirt not stick to you but flow over your body much prettier!!! Young ladies dress like a lady!!!
Oh that was a fun read, Nicole! I wrote an article a few years ago about the history of underwear and it was so fascinating to me. This was equally interesting learning the history of slips as well.
Shelbee