The history of black and white in fashion

Nicole of High Latitude Style in fall's BW trend with pop of color

Black and white is a fool proof classic

Yes, black and white (BW) can be very elegant, very interesting, very boring, casual as well as anything inbetween. One would think wearing this combination is a nobrainer because it’s a classic. But exactly that makes it so tricky to not look like wearing a cooky-cutter outfit. This post provides a short glimpse on the European history of this color combo and some outfit ideas how to wear black white fashion in midlife in a fashion-forward, modern and professional way. Who wants to look yesteryear, yesterdecade or even last century?

over 50 years old fashion blogger in bw outfit with floral and zebra print

style blogger in black cropped pants and bw print sweater work outfit
Zebra print Nine & Co pumps, gold rutil quartz necklace, smoky quartz flower buckle statement belt, Ray Ban sunglasses, Hermes collier de chien bangle (all own), UFB 50+ sun protective long-sleeve abstract floral print top c/o Coolibar and cropped pants c/o White House | Black Market

Black and white clothing in Europe’s history

Nicolaes Eliasz. Pickenoy portrait of a Young Woman in black gown with white color
Nicolaes Eliasz. Pickenoy (Dutch, 1588 – 1650/1656). Portrait of a Young Woman, 1632, Oil on panel 118.7 × 91.1 cm (46 3/4 × 35 7/8 in.), 54.PB.3. The J. Paul Getty Museum, Los Angeles

Like American’s wearing white in summer, there is a long history related to black clothing in Europe.

Young Woman in a gingham jacket in a Rocking Chair
Jacques Joseph Tissot (French, 1836 – 1902), Young Woman in a Rocking Chair, study for the painting “The Last Evening”, French, about 1873, Brush with gouache and watercolor, over graphite on brown paper, 28.7 × 43.2 cm (11 5/16 × 17 in.), 2002.30. From the Getty’s Open Content Program.

Europe has a long history of fashion laws

They are not like “don’t wear white after Labor Daywear white after Labor Day or before Memorial Day” or “don’t wear denim on denim.” The laws prescribed which social and age group was allowed to wear what.

For example, take a look at the big ruff in the first painting of this post. The tint of the collar would even indicate your political view and religious faith. The ruff was worn by men, women and children alike. First, it was just small piece of fabric building a ruffle when fastening the drawstring at the neck of a shirt. However, once starch was invented, the fabric became larger and larger over time. It forced the wear to stay straight with the head upright. Thus, it was unsuitable for anyone who had to work in the field, store or crafting. Starch gave the ruff a slight dye in a pinkish, yellowish or bluish hint. Queen Elizabeth I of England prohibited the wearing of bluish ruffs because blue was the color of the flag of Scotland. Thus, if you loved your head to be attached to your torso, you better followed the law.

Black was hard and expensive to make. It would be the darkest when made from silk velvet. Thus, the color reserved for special ceremonies and the Courts. The dominance of the Spanish and Italian courts as well as the close connection of the Dutchs dominated the color choice in the 16th century and well into the 17th.

BW in the 19th century

Fashion has changed in the last 80 years at fast pace. Still today, black clothing is the favorite everyday goto outfit for many women in the countries surrounding the Mediterranian Sea.

BW were associated with furnals and widows

In the West-Germany of the late 60s to early 80s, black was reserved for grievance and festive or official occasions. The only color to wear with black to these occassions was white. However, the dark shade had to be the dominant color of the outfit. In the village where we lived, widows would wear black for a year after their hubands’ death. In summer, a black dress with white print was accepted.

When I was a kid, my mom had a white polka dot blouse and a black skirt suit. She would always wear these items when she had to go to a furnal. The only other time, I can remember her wearing the outfit, was the baptising of my brother in 1968.

Black and white as festive clothing

When I graduated from high school, we were supposed to wear festive attire. Thus, I chose a long black velvet skirt with white button-down shirt and borrowed my brothers velvet blazer. Note in Germany, you don’t wear regalia for graduation.

When I became a Ph.D. student, the study and examination regulations still stated that the candiate had to show up for the oral examination in a black suit, white button-down shirt and silver tie. I had planned on doing that. But they “lifted” the dress-code to “appropriate professional attire.” Nevertheless, I wore the black and white suit that I had bought for my sister’s wedding in the year before.

The 80s made BW a Do

In the 80s, black conquer the everyday fashion. Black and white outfits with red shoes or a black skirt with pink top were fashionably stylish looks at the office. Sheer black pantyhose became a do. I still hear the comments of women in their 50s and older when I wore these pantyhose in the tram the first time.

White tennis socks were a Must-Have with dark denim pants for men and women in their twenties or younger alike. It was the time of Steffi Graf and Boris Becker being the tennis icons winning Wimbeldon and Grand Slams. White sneakers met the black power suit.

The 90s were black-everything for West German fashionistas

Black-everything was my uniform. Think nail polish, pumps, sandals, pants, jeans, T-shirt, coat, bag, underwear, but no pantyhose at all. The darkest color there is from head-to-toe was It for women in their 30s or younger in West-Germany. A noir Movado watch and a raven-color Mercedes Benz 190 were the status symbol of the 30-something career women from West-Germany.

young woman in fake black suits in the early 90s
Me in a fake black suit on Crete in 1991 wearing a straight black skirt, cropped jacket with 3/4 sleeves, black silk scarf, DIY belt and red top

At the same time, women from East Germany wore embellished clothing, mules and bags. Patchwork-leather bags were their It statement. Crystals and sequins on colorful sweaters, blue jeans and mules. No women from West-Germany would have worn mules outside the house at that time. The nation had been divided for almost 40 years which also let to cultural and fashion-perference differences.

Goth fashion tribe

Leipzig was the meeting for the Goth fashion tribe every Pentecost. While many people found them scary, I enjoyed seeing this sub-culture’ young persons’ unique personal styles. The Victorian area mourning gowns with veils had inspired their Goth dresses. However, the prude high neckline and floor lenght made way for punging necklines and/or tigh length (see example photo below). The cleavage was full of amulets, skull, charm and/or Celtic-inspired jewelry. Their pale often white faces were in stark contrast to their blueblack long hair and dark clothes. Sometimes hair would be purple or green. Color was rare and if, provocative sexy like the red in the photo below. Goth fashion still strives in Europe, particularly in Germany.

Young woman leaving the railway station walking towards downtown Leipzig “Wave Gotik Treffen 2014” by David d’O / Schaapmans is licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

My look of the day

My outfit of the day features a floral BW-print top and cropped pants as a casual office look. In the mornings, it is already quite chilly here in the Interior of Alaska. Thus, I added a cardigan with waterfall collar to stay warm on the commute to work. My blue and turquoise satchel takes up the blue of the jacket. To add or not to add a pop of color is no question this fall.

Don’t let the right outfit be a random thing. Wear the right look in every situation by looking up what to wear when in How to Dress for Success in Midlife. Buy my book now.

over 50 years old blogger in blue jacket, sunglasses and bag with BW top and dark pants

mature blogger in long cardigan, cropped trousers and pumps

mature woman in long waterfall colare jacket and capris

Zoom-in on outfit details of casual work look
Outfit details: Zebra print Nine & Co pumps, Ray Ban sunglasses, Hermes collier de chien bangle, Prada satchel, rutil quartz necklace, smoky quartz belt (all own), UFB 50+ sun protective long-sleeve abstract floral print top and cardigan both c/o Coolibar and cropped pants c/o White House | Black Market
Wear the BW-trend with a pop of color other than red. #fashiontrends Click To Tweet

P.S. Like these outfit ideas? If so, please feel free to pin them to your own Pinterest board.

Join the High Latitude Style tribe

Are you registered for my free 2-weekly Newsletter to let you know about new posts, how-tos  and special style subjects? I’d highly appreciate it if you take the time to sign up and ask your friends to sign up too!!

Photos of me: G. Kramm

Other photos: N. Mölders

Disclosure: There are affiliate links in this post. You don’t pay more when you purchase a product through my link. These links just make it easier for you to find something, and I get a few cents when you purchase it. I so appreciate your support of High Latitude Style. Thank you!

© 2013-2019 Nicole Mölders | All rights reserved

Advertisements

4 thoughts on “The history of black and white in fashion

  1. What an interesting history of black and white. You can never go wrong with the combination and then adding any color as an accent always works. I love this shade of blue on you!

    Shelbee

  2. I am actually wearing black and white today with accent color in blush earrings and sneakers!

Comments are closed.