No matter whether you are petite or have another reason for shortening a high-low hem. This post explains the steps in text and photos.
- How to Alter a High-low Hem
- What You Need
- How to Shorten a Maxi Dress to Knee-length
- Infographic of Tailoring a High-low Hem
- Styling a Midi High-low Hem Wrap Dress for Work
- Final Tips
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How to Alter a High-low Hem
I got this high-low hem velvet dress for the Forty Below Ball that took part in January. Since the ball was not announced as black tie I picked a maxi dress (see photo below) that would be “formal” enough to fit the dress code at the ball (upscale Fairbanks formal), but that I could change to get more wear out of it. In a small town like Fairbanks, the people attending a ball are more or less the same crowd year after year. Thus, you can’t wear the same dress to a ball twice. 🙁
In this post, I share with you how to shorten a high-low hem yourself. The photo below shows the dress used in this example tutorial prior to the alterations.
What you need
Here is a list of what you need:
- Tailor scissors
- Yarn in the color of the dress
- Tailor’s chalk
- Full length mirror
- Either an adjustable mannequin set for your height with your best hemlines marked or a friend helping to stitch/hold the hem to find the best length in the front and back
- Tape measure
- Needle or sewing machine
How to Shorten a Maxi Dress to Knee-length
Here are the steps:
- Put the dress on inside out to mark the desirable length at the front and back. This can be done best with the help of a friend.
- Use the tape measure to determine how long the skirt has to be in the back and front measuring from your natural waist. Add 1 inch (2.5 cm) for the hem and mark the points on the inside of the fabric. Alternatively you could determine how much has to be shortened. In this case, you would have to withdraw 1 inch from the number to account for the length. Note that the first method is more reliable as you probably know the lengths of your most flattering skirts.
- Now create a curved line that combines the points marked in the front and back. Make sure that at same distance from the mid back point and mid front point the curves on the left and right have same distance from the old hem and your natural waist.
- Cut along your final curves. Tip: Once done fold along the line of the front and back point. Ideally, they should match. Make adjustments if needed.
- Pin the hem by folding the fabric so that no open end remains.
- Put the dress on carefully and check the length in the mirror for symmetry and length. Make adjustments, if needed.
- Sew the pinned hem. Iron, if needed. Tip: When working with velvet or corduroy, do not use an iron! It would leave the fabric flat! If you absolutely have to, you may try at low heat to press slightly with a moist piece of the cut off fabric facing with its the outside the outside of the hem. The structure on structure surpresses a bit the flattening. But test this first with two pieces of the cutoff fabric before you do it on your dress.
Infographic of Tailoring a High-low Hem
The following infographic shows in photos and instructions how toalter a high-low hem to turn a maxi wrap-dress in a knee-length work-appropriate warp dress. Note that when shortening a high-low wrap-dress, you have two “front points” to consider.
Styling a Midi High-low Hem Wrap Dress for Work
Since velvet is a trend right now, it is easy to wear the shortened gown as a wrap dress at the office. All you have to do is to keep the accessories and shoes in the classic work appropriate style. The reasons to accessorize with a scarf were to up the style factor and to stay warm. It was still cold in the spring transition season. The v-neck of this wrap dress is quite modest, i.e. there is no reason to use a scarf to cover the cleavage.
Bookmark this page in your browser or pin the post banner or infographic to your sewing or DIY pinterest board so you find it when you need it. When you are unsure which color of yarn is best, buy the yarn after cutting the dress/skirt. Shop for the best match by holding a sample to the yarns available at the store. #alterations #sewingfashionista Click To Tweet
Which version do you like better? The short knee-length or the long maxi version? Do you shorten your gowns to wear them for another purpose and/or get more wear out of them?
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Photos of me: G. Kramm
Photos of the infographic and infographic: N. Mölders
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