All You Need to Know about Fair Isle Knits

This post discusses the characteristics of an original Fair Isle sweater, the knitting technique, and how to distinguish a fashion version from the eternally classic piece. Further information includes what does Fair Isle mean, where the garment was manufactured originally, and who made it famous. In addition, the post provides inspirations how to style it including can you wear a Fair Isle sweater with a skirt.

Contents

Who Initiated the Fair Isle Trend?
Is there a Difference between a Shetland and Fair Isle Sweater?
What Does Fair Isle Knitting Technique Refer To?
What Does Fair Isle Mean?
Is Fair Isle in Style?
What to Wear with an Fair Isle Sweater?
Wrapping Up the Characteristics of an Original Fair Isle Sweater
References

Who Initiated the Fair Isle Trend

Fair Isle became very popular when the Prince of Wales (later King Edward VIII) wore Fair Isle sweater vests in 1921.

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Is there a Difference between a Shetland and Fair Isle Sweater?

The name Fair Isle refers to a traditional knitting technique named after the Fair Isle, an island belonging to the Shetland Islands north of Scotland. Therefore, many vendors also call their Fair Isle sweaters Shetland sweaters.

What Does Fair Isle Knitting Technique Refer to?

The Fair Isle knitting technique refers to a pattern of different colors knit in a round. Typically, Fair Isle patterns use a color palette of about five different colors in total, and only two different colors per row. This technique is pretty easy when done with a two pointed needle that has a flexible plastic middle to hold all the meshes of the sweater.

Alternatively, five double pointed needles can be used. In this technique, four needles hold about one fourth of the meshes. The fifth serves to knit the next quarter of a round. Both ways limit how much a knitter can knit in a given color.

Fair Isle knitting technique using 1 two-pointed needle — Meshes on a two-pointed needle with plastic soft middle showing the front side of a stranded knit pattern with two colors at a time. On the inside, the strands not in use are caught. Knitting starts with a hem followed by the pattern repeated for about 2-3 in (5-7.5 cm) followed by a solid color section in the background color to the height of the sleeves. Then the pattern repeats while reducing the number of meshes towards the neck. Photo by different_nata (modified). Source: depositiophotos.com.

To avoid loose strands or that the strands catch buttons, the knitter catches the yarn not in use by the yarn in use. This technique ensures that one cannot see the strands on the outside. Typically, catching of unused strands occurs every 3-5 stitches.

This knitting technique is very suitable to create an extra layer of insulation as five colors make for a lot of catching up of strands. Consequently, a lot of air is between the various strands and thin air pockets are a great insulator. As a result, the pullover protects the wearer from body heat loss around the upper chest.

What Does Fair Isle Mean?

Unfortunately, since the 1990s, vendors and designers use the term “Fair Isle” very loosely to any stranded color knitting. Concretely speaking this means that today the name only refers only to the origin of the knitting technique. It does not identify the place of manufacture anymore, nor that the production followed the traditional technique and/or pattern.

Today these sweater can come in all kind of dyed wool as well as in various materials and colors. Of course, the wear comfort characteristics of these “fashion versions” differ from the ones made of undyed 100% wool.

Cheap mock versions of Fair Isle/Shetland sweaters have the pattern stitched onto the knit.

Note that all versions also come as vests, beanies, gloves, mittens and socks.

Is Fair Isle in Style?

A Shetland garment in the original colors, undyed wool and original pattern is an eternal classic and worth the investments. However, the fashion versions in materials and colors other than undyed wool are trends. They can quickly look dated because color trends change every year.

This is more obvious for fashion colors, while you can get away more easily with a piece in neutral colors because the annual Pantone neutral colors look quite similar. Therefore, when you love the style, but you can’t afford a high quality Shetland piece in undyed wool, go for the highest quality look-a-like in neutrals. However, be aware another material has other thermal properties. A cotton version, for instance, works fine in regions with warm, dry winters, but not in humid, cold winter climate zones.

A red-and-white version with snow-flake and/or reindeer pattern is popular as cheap, but not to ugly Christmas sweater.

What to Wear with a Fair Isle Sweater?

Fair Isle Typically, how to wear Fair Isle sweaters is to style them with wool pants, or jeans for a cozy casual winter look. When paired with a skirt it is usually a denim one or some maxi skirt for a Bohemian style look. However, the combination of a leather or hounds tooth pencil skirt with this traditional knit sweater yields an eclectic style vibe.

Example of Fair Isle sweater variation styles with skirt — This Fair Isle sweater has the original pattern, colors, material and technique, but its place of manufacture is none of the Shetlands. Eddie Bauer Fair Isle sweater, Kieselstein Cord belt and three horses buckle, Sienna Studios straight leather skirt, GNW flannel tights, and Vince Camuto suede boots.

Wrapping Up the Characteristics of an Original Fair Isle Sweater

To get an original, hand made Fair Isle sweater from the Shetland Islands look for the knit pattern and the tag. The pattern has yarn in the back to bridge between meshes that use the respective yarn. Its material consists of undyed sheep wool of different colors.

You may be also interested in these posts of the fashion history series: