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Fashion History – Duffle coat

The coat is named after a town

Originally, the duffel coat was made from a coarse, thick, woolen material called duffel. This name refers the town of its origin Duffel, Belgium. Thus, the American way to write duffle coat is actually a misspelling in regards to the coat’s origin. Out of respect for the city of Duffel I use the original spelling in this post.

The duffle coat’s military background

During the Great War, the British Royal Navy issued a camel-colored duffel coat the duffel coat with a bucket type hood. This military coat reached to the knees for protection from winds and cold. The original British style duffel coat had a genuine double weave duffel with tartan pattern on the inside. First, the closure featured three, later four wooden or buffalo horn toggles with leather loops.

During World War II, the duffel coat featured a revised design. At that time, the duffel coat got the name convoy coat or Monty coat because Field Marshal Montgomery wore a duffel coat. After WWII, the manufacturer sold their large stocks of surplus duffel coats to the public at affordable prices. Due to their high quality and good weather protection duffel coats became popular in the 1950s and 1960s.

Modern duffel coat with flap pockets front and back view
Modern duffel coat with flap pockets front (left) and back view

How the duffle coat became a classic

In 1954, the British company Gloverall started their own version of the duffel coat that has two large outside patch pockets with flaps. Later pancake type hoods became popular. Today duffel coats are available in all lengths from to the knees to just covering the bum. Modern duffel coats, like many other high quality coats, are often made from a softer wool fabric with distinct nap than duffel. Modern duffel coats often don plastic toggles for easy closure.

Duffel coats are classic, stylish coats. But their straight cut does nothing for your shape. In my opinion, they look great on men. For my money, they leave something to desire when worn by women. However, for a straight-up-and-down slim and tall gal, a duffel coat is a great choice as a statement piece when it comes to protection from the cold, rain and wind.

Previous posts of the Bites and Bits of Fashion History series covered the pea coatFair Isle sweater, and fishermen cable-knit sweater.

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Photos: N. Mölders

Copyright 2013-2017 Nicole Mölders | All rights reserved

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